I think you should have made that top plate larger to accept the tubes on the bottom rather than making those notched connections. It might not be a big deal. I don't know.sbeckman7 wrote:
Sbeckman7's Project: BR1
I was starting to think the same thing... those connections could certainly be stronger, but only testing will tell if they're strong enough.tsmall07 wrote:I think you should have made that top plate larger to accept the tubes on the bottom rather than making those notched connections. It might not be a big deal. I don't know.sbeckman7 wrote:
Also on the salt thing... It's CA, no salt on the roads, and winter consists of rain and sunshine... hardly winter at all.
Awesome, stronger mounts is a good idea.
Also, I like the look of the new drawings, the whole chassis looks sturdier by being lowered that little bit.
Although, are you planning on making the front a complete X? It seems like it'd be very easy to complete the X, and make the whole front that bit less reliant on one weld...
Also, I like the look of the new drawings, the whole chassis looks sturdier by being lowered that little bit.
Although, are you planning on making the front a complete X? It seems like it'd be very easy to complete the X, and make the whole front that bit less reliant on one weld...Agreed.mtnman533 wrote: It seems like it'd be very easy to complete the X, and make the whole front that bit less reliant on one weld...
Also, you need to make your tubing joints come together into "nodes". Look at this picture:
See how all the tubes come to a single point and are welded together?
I would redo those joints to make a node. It will be much stronger.
It's a general tip, but I was pointing out your front strut mount specifically. It looks like those tubes could be angled differently to allow them to come together more. Maybe you can't get them into a real node (and maybe you shouldn't at that spot), but I'm imagining them being welded into the bottom of a "C" shaped ring that then is welded into your strut mount plate. It looks like it could be stronger. Maybe you should consult with moosehead on this one. I think you need to find a way to weld the full circumference of the tube to the plate.sbeckman7 wrote:As of now, I can't make the front brace a full X because of the e28 steering box. If I swap for a rack and pinion setup later, I'll finish the X at that time. Is there anywhere in specific you guys are referring to with the nodes or is that just a general tip? I tried to make as many as I could.
Have faith in my planningtsmall07 wrote:It's a general tip, but I was pointing out your front strut mount specifically. It looks like those tubes could be angled differently to allow them to come together more. Maybe you can't get them into a real node (and maybe you shouldn't at that spot), but I'm imagining them being welded into the bottom of a "C" shaped ring that then is welded into your strut mount plate. It looks like it could be stronger. Maybe you should consult with moosehead on this one. I think you need to find a way to weld the full circumference of the tube to the plate.sbeckman7 wrote:As of now, I can't make the front brace a full X because of the e28 steering box. If I swap for a rack and pinion setup later, I'll finish the X at that time. Is there anywhere in specific you guys are referring to with the nodes or is that just a general tip? I tried to make as many as I could.
Like you said a real node is impossible but I have plans to strengthen them when the time comes. I made the frame that will eventually hold the transmission tunnel and tacked it to the frame. I'll post pics tonight. I gotta make sure the seats are gonna fit! 
Time for an update:
I have been very fortunate to receive a Job in this economy; I now work at Peet's Coffee and Tea. Unfortunately, I may have to quit soon... Because I just got hired as a Technician In Training at Aston Martin!!! I was beside myself with joy when I got the call; it felt like one of those surreal moments that's a half dream. I start this Friday.
Back to the BR1. I've been in contact with a machine shop called Ellsworth Brothers that does all the heads from DINAN as its right across the street from the HQ. Not only were they the most thorough, offering a 3 angle valve job, but they were also the cheapest at $225 per head! I'll have them done once I'm a little further along with the frame and have more money in my bank account
I was about to weld the transmission tunnel in place when I decided to do a test fit of the Sparco's and found it was not a good fit with the tunnel designed the way it currently is. The seat touches on both sides of the frame so I'll be modifying the center tunnel to more of a "Y" shape instead of a "V". Here are the pictures to show the clearances, or lack thereof. You can also see the structure I tacked over the bell housing. I am concerned about those clearances as well: There is currently 3/4" of room between the top of the bell housing and the structure directly above it. I am planning on shaving down a few of the gussets on the bell housing to allow for more clearance. I don't think the amount of material I will remove will affect the strength of the piece, but I'll wait to mess with it until I have the transmission bolted up and ready to go.
I have been very fortunate to receive a Job in this economy; I now work at Peet's Coffee and Tea. Unfortunately, I may have to quit soon... Because I just got hired as a Technician In Training at Aston Martin!!! I was beside myself with joy when I got the call; it felt like one of those surreal moments that's a half dream. I start this Friday.
Back to the BR1. I've been in contact with a machine shop called Ellsworth Brothers that does all the heads from DINAN as its right across the street from the HQ. Not only were they the most thorough, offering a 3 angle valve job, but they were also the cheapest at $225 per head! I'll have them done once I'm a little further along with the frame and have more money in my bank account
I was about to weld the transmission tunnel in place when I decided to do a test fit of the Sparco's and found it was not a good fit with the tunnel designed the way it currently is. The seat touches on both sides of the frame so I'll be modifying the center tunnel to more of a "Y" shape instead of a "V". Here are the pictures to show the clearances, or lack thereof. You can also see the structure I tacked over the bell housing. I am concerned about those clearances as well: There is currently 3/4" of room between the top of the bell housing and the structure directly above it. I am planning on shaving down a few of the gussets on the bell housing to allow for more clearance. I don't think the amount of material I will remove will affect the strength of the piece, but I'll wait to mess with it until I have the transmission bolted up and ready to go.
Last edited by sbeckman7 on Apr 07, 2013 9:17 PM, edited 1 time in total.
Well if you wanna get specific it was never going to use an e28 body, just the underpinnings. I am using the transmission, subframes, suspension, and diff from the e28.tschultz wrote:So in effect, your e28 race car has turned into a custom car that only uses the BBS RS wheels from the original E28, right?
Neat, but no longer an e28 car
Firewall frame and top of transmission tunnel tacked 
I rested one of the round tubes across the outside of the frame so I was actually sitting inside my car for the first time! What a fantastic feeling to see this thing rise up around me. My care package (Modified bell housing, Tilton OT-II 7.25" clutch, hydraulic throwout bearing, and 11lb aluminum flywheel) arrive on Monday!! Until then I may be able to work on the frame a bit more, but I have to keep it pretty open so that moving the engine and transmission around stays easy.
Next step? Well I'm planning on finishing up the transmission tunnel once I have the Getrag bolted to the M70 for good. Other than that, it's time to start on the roll bars! I'm either going to tackle the roll bars using Daniel's new bender or source help from a buddy I worked for at Infineon Raceway. THIS IS ALL VERY EXCITING TO ME.
I rested one of the round tubes across the outside of the frame so I was actually sitting inside my car for the first time! What a fantastic feeling to see this thing rise up around me. My care package (Modified bell housing, Tilton OT-II 7.25" clutch, hydraulic throwout bearing, and 11lb aluminum flywheel) arrive on Monday!! Until then I may be able to work on the frame a bit more, but I have to keep it pretty open so that moving the engine and transmission around stays easy.
Next step? Well I'm planning on finishing up the transmission tunnel once I have the Getrag bolted to the M70 for good. Other than that, it's time to start on the roll bars! I'm either going to tackle the roll bars using Daniel's new bender or source help from a buddy I worked for at Infineon Raceway. THIS IS ALL VERY EXCITING TO ME.
Thanks! Got a bit more work done today on the transmission tunnel. Cut and welded 4 supports, cut the pipe that was blocking the path of the driveshaft, and mounted the other halfshaft so it doesn't take up space on the shelf
I am going to have to purchase some floor mount pedals because the stock assembly isn't going to fit in the tiny footwell. I also have to contact Tilton to figure out how the throwout bearing should be sitting in the bell housing because it doesn't seem correctly mounted. Roll bar progress should be starting on Tuesday and my heads will be finished Wednesday. Once the roll bars are made, I can finish up the frame!!!! It feels fantastic to sit in this thing with the [mostly] finished transmission tunnel. Seeing your dreams or visions become reality is the most amazing feeling in the world.
Here is what remains to be done before D-Day:
- mount the engine and transmission
- get a driveshaft made
- finish the brakes and steering
- buy/make and install a gas tank
- install the electronics
And on top of that list, here is what will need to be completed before I can officially call it done:
- create fiberglass body
- Furnish interior
- Design and install sound system/helmet communications
- Lots o' paint
- (4) Bike mufflers
- Install Lighting systems
I am going to have to purchase some floor mount pedals because the stock assembly isn't going to fit in the tiny footwell. I also have to contact Tilton to figure out how the throwout bearing should be sitting in the bell housing because it doesn't seem correctly mounted. Roll bar progress should be starting on Tuesday and my heads will be finished Wednesday. Once the roll bars are made, I can finish up the frame!!!! It feels fantastic to sit in this thing with the [mostly] finished transmission tunnel. Seeing your dreams or visions become reality is the most amazing feeling in the world.
Here is what remains to be done before D-Day:
- mount the engine and transmission
- get a driveshaft made
- finish the brakes and steering
- buy/make and install a gas tank
- install the electronics
And on top of that list, here is what will need to be completed before I can officially call it done:
- create fiberglass body
- Furnish interior
- Design and install sound system/helmet communications
- Lots o' paint
- (4) Bike mufflers
- Install Lighting systems
-
TheLazyDog
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- Location: Elgin, Illinois
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but of course, I just can't put them in until I have the roll bar in since they all tie together:tsmall07 wrote:Are you going to add a brace from the front corner of the fire wall frame to the shock tower?
Not quite, it will be once the roll bar and rear suspension mounts are in![/quote]It would have been better if this was one piece, but welded should be okay. Is it a rolling chassis yet?