Big Bronze Rim wrote:Engine sounds great on the dyno. The HG didn't last too long though at that level.
Thanks, the gasket was pretty dried up and brittle. Checked the head for straightness and it was out .007 in the center, it's within spec per the Chilton manual. I have this M90 head that is straight and recently decked to use.
Did a little porting in the combustion chamber by the valves. Is the camshaft any different on the Euro M90?
Just need to swap over the manifolds, here's the old head.
Lesson learned though, when pulling the head with the manifold be careful not to break the timing chain guide rail. Mine broke in three pieces and now have to pull the front timing cover off.
I did some work around the valves like that on the last head I had on my M20. Turns out the head was cracked and it was a complete waste of time. It does seem like there might be something to gain by unshrouding the chambers.
turbodan wrote:I did some work around the valves like that on the last head I had on my M20. Turns out the head was cracked and it was a complete waste of time. It does seem like there might be something to gain by unshrouding the chambers.
The combustion chambers needed some cleaning and figured what the hell, can't hurt right
I re-skimmed this thread from the start and didn't see what I was looking for (might be blind). You're running a B34 or 35(?) M30 that is stone stock correct? How does the M90 head compare to the 'prepped' version?
Canuck YYC wrote:I re-skimmed this thread from the start and didn't see what I was looking for (might be blind). You're running a B34 or 35(?) M30 that is stone stock correct? How does the M90 head compare to the 'prepped' version?
Bone stock B34. Honestly the M90 head looks the same as the B34 head.
Head is back on, used a stock headgasket with ARP's
The M90head was decked so went ahead and made my own adjustable cam gear. Just took a stock one knocked out the dowel pin and used a rat tail file to open up the holes. And added a few degrees.
Started it up with no coolant for a minute then re-torqued the head again. Should be driving it by the end of this week
Good & Tight wrote:Just took a stock one knocked out the dowel pin and used a rat tail file to open up the holes. And added a few degrees.
Bad idea! What keeps your ghetto sprocket from moving? BMW put a dowel pin in it for a reason. You also used a worn out part, see how the teeth are pointed. That sprocket gets loose and you will be pulling that head again to replace it.
Should have had Paul make you one.
Did you dial in the cam or just throw in some extra avance for good measure?
Good & Tight wrote:Just took a stock one knocked out the dowel pin and used a rat tail file to open up the holes. And added a few degrees.
Bad idea! What keeps your ghetto sprocket from moving? BMW put a dowel pin in it for a reason. You also used a worn out part, see how the teeth are pointed. That sprocket gets loose and you will be pulling that head again to replace it.
Should have had Paul make you one.
Did you dial in the cam or just throw in some extra avance for good measure?
I did the same thing to my M10 and reved it to 8000rpm all the time without any problems.
The whole motor is worn anyway if it pops I dont care it was free.
And yes I just threw in some extra advance by eye.
i did the same 'upgrade' on my last FI engine.
but did make up metal inserts that kept the whole thing in its place.took alittle time with a small file,but piece of mind is worth more.m
All back together, took it out last night beat on it pretty bad and nothing broke Downshifted to 3rd at 55mph and floored it, sent the car sideways Rerouted the wastegate line differently and it doesn't spike to 18psi now, just stays at 14psi. Car feels faster and sounds a lot crispier
Here it is all buttoned up.
Dude, your vids couldn't have come at a better time.good inspiration..Im still trying to work out some bugs with my MS but once thats all done i hope to be close to as fast as you are..
E30M30 turbo cars rock!
I had one small question for ya..what diff ratio are you running?
I have a line on a 2.79LSD but im sorta worried it will be a bit too tall..
e30-m30_kid89 wrote:Dude, your vids couldn't have come at a better time.good inspiration..Im still trying to work out some bugs with my MS but once thats all done i hope to be close to as fast as you are..
E30M30 turbo cars rock!
I had one small question for ya..what diff ratio are you running?
I have a line on a 2.79LSD but im sorta worried it will be a bit too tall..
3.73 lsd, I have small drag radials though 195/55/14. IMO the gear is perfect for what I use it for. Top speed is 155mph @7000rpm in 5th, assuming the calculator is right.
e30-m30_kid89 wrote:Dude, your vids couldn't have come at a better time.good inspiration..Im still trying to work out some bugs with my MS but once thats all done i hope to be close to as fast as you are..
E30M30 turbo cars rock!
I had one small question for ya..what diff ratio are you running?
I have a line on a 2.79LSD but im sorta worried it will be a bit too tall..
3.73 lsd, I have small drag radials though 195/55/14. IMO the gear is perfect for what I use it for. Top speed is 155mph @7000rpm in 5th, assuming the calculator is right.
I bet that has a very unique look. How far off is the speedo with those wee little tires?
Good kills indeed. The open WG sounds so sick. The car looks ridiculously fast and makes me question getting rid of my 3.73 diff as it just accelerates so hard. I'm worried I'll be disapointed if drop to a 3.25.
Had some fun last night. First two runs were with a civic hatch fully built with over 400rwhp. He eats up Z06's, he was a little confused on how a 318i walked by him. Third vid was with a drag Integra with over 600rwhp running E85 and drag radials so big the front bumper was off so they can fit.
These are fully built engines that rev over 9000rpm against my stock 12 valve M30 on 15psi. Enjoy:)
Now I now the built engine has to rev to 8000rpm. These M30's are such a beast on boost.