What did you do to your E28 today?
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On the 533, the RHS SKF wheel bearing was slowly raising the white flag (French), so both were replaced. Damn inner races stayed on the spindle. Thank God for air tools. Busted off the ABS tone ring and we're good. Didn't plan on having to update to the later style nuts, though. Wasted an hour there.
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rmiddendorf wrote:Finally bought new turn signal bulbs only to find out that the left front running light isn't getting power. Crap.
wiggle the harness connector. I am trying to to diconnect the wonky ABS on B6II. On Marina's super E, I finally got the radio to take the code and replaced a few widgets with stuff from my parts cars.
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I already tried that. No voltage at all. Not even a bump on a wiggle. Going to have to gain better access to it (remove the top bumper cover???) and shove the multimeter down the connector. Hopefully its just corroded. Also want to check the fuses but I can't imagine that they're not all on the same circuit. Haven't spent much time on it yet though... do have the .pdfs to use. Thanks!
FINALLY got some time to work on it (hour & 1/2 ) & tried in vain to get the flywheel bolts loose/off. Going back tonight/tomorrow with a bit of angle iron to bolt up to the thing to keep the crank from turning. Cleaned a little more grime off the trans. Not quite clean enough to eat off of. Yet.
Pics or it didn't happen.swatterssr wrote:Traded one for an E21...
I just finished replacing most of the front end. I bought new BMW upper arms, Powerflex bushings, BMW sway bar links, Turner Motorsports lower arms, both front wheel bearings, sway bar bushings, BMW strut mounts and BMW Motorsports springs. Changed the oil and filter with Mobil 1 15W-50 from Walmart ($21 for 5 quarts yes!). Still pending are the rear springs (BMW Motorsports) and sway bar bushings and end links. Already feels like a completely different car, Wow! I love my E28 (more than my E34 530 auto-tragic!) The PO had already put Bilstein HD's in it and now is not as "bouncy" as it used to be.
I guess I'll go take my Ibuprofen now as most of my 43 years old body hurts!
I guess I'll go take my Ibuprofen now as most of my 43 years old body hurts!
Schwinn Bushings
At least the name sounds German.Jsanders wrote:Installed new Meyle upper and lower control arms, sway bar end links and tie rod ends. I still need to get it aligned, but it already feels so much better.
I also found out that the PO installed Schwinn sway bar bushings, made of what I can only guess is a Schwinn bicycle tire.
Urethane Bushings
Never again. I took mine off the road today, to have it ready to fix since it's no longer safe to drive.
At least when rubber fails, it goes gradually. FWIW, the heat shield was in place. Meyle HD's on my list.
At least when rubber fails, it goes gradually. FWIW, the heat shield was in place. Meyle HD's on my list.
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I'm discovering there are a lot more good rubber pieces on my ratty old Wisconsin parts car than on the formerly-of-Florida Kelvinator. Yesterday, after pulling the track tires off [Note: need rear pads.], I dug into the left rear door where the window was slightly open - just enough to make noise - and wouldn't move.
The first thing I discovered when I opened things up was more evidence of the 'butcher' who had hung the doors when they were replaced. The damn motor wasn't plugged in. Even connected, though, it ran but nothing moved. After messing with it for awhile, I went into the garage where the Lachs Beast lurks to provide parts. I pulled the door card off (gaining an unbroken latch handle surround) and removed the (uncracked!) latch handle itself. Then I pulled the window lift mechanism and walked it over to the Kelvinator, fresh in the knowledge of how the thing comes out.
Even after it was hanging, the old one was stuck. WTF? I finally forced the lift pin along its track with some difficulty and, when it came out, the problem was obvious: it was rusted into place. No wonder the old motor clutch failed. Along the way, I'd noticed the window seals were still rubber on the parts car while they were pieces of hardened oxidized crap on the Kelvinator. So out with the old and in with the old-but-still-nice. Plenty of silicone spray and some white grease and we were in business.
I hit the window lift track heavily with grease and worked the nicely lubed replacement into place. After connecting it (Ya hear that, moron?), it worked perfectly. As well, I recovered three panel fasteners from a door card to replace those done in by the butcher and replaced the door latch handle (butcher had cracked it and lost the little grommet for the link hook) and surround.
Next up: swap out the driver door latch and lock assembly. Somehow, the butcher didn't think it important that this door, of all the locking points, should work. Also plan to replace the belt with one that still has the button that keeps the link from falling to the floor.
The first thing I discovered when I opened things up was more evidence of the 'butcher' who had hung the doors when they were replaced. The damn motor wasn't plugged in. Even connected, though, it ran but nothing moved. After messing with it for awhile, I went into the garage where the Lachs Beast lurks to provide parts. I pulled the door card off (gaining an unbroken latch handle surround) and removed the (uncracked!) latch handle itself. Then I pulled the window lift mechanism and walked it over to the Kelvinator, fresh in the knowledge of how the thing comes out.
Even after it was hanging, the old one was stuck. WTF? I finally forced the lift pin along its track with some difficulty and, when it came out, the problem was obvious: it was rusted into place. No wonder the old motor clutch failed. Along the way, I'd noticed the window seals were still rubber on the parts car while they were pieces of hardened oxidized crap on the Kelvinator. So out with the old and in with the old-but-still-nice. Plenty of silicone spray and some white grease and we were in business.
I hit the window lift track heavily with grease and worked the nicely lubed replacement into place. After connecting it (Ya hear that, moron?), it worked perfectly. As well, I recovered three panel fasteners from a door card to replace those done in by the butcher and replaced the door latch handle (butcher had cracked it and lost the little grommet for the link hook) and surround.
Next up: swap out the driver door latch and lock assembly. Somehow, the butcher didn't think it important that this door, of all the locking points, should work. Also plan to replace the belt with one that still has the button that keeps the link from falling to the floor.
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Re: Schwinn Bushings
I think that's part of a hand grip. This was installed as a bushing?!!Tulsa6 wrote:At least the name sounds German.Jsanders wrote:Installed new Meyle upper and lower control arms, sway bar end links and tie rod ends. I still need to get it aligned, but it already feels so much better.
I also found out that the PO installed Schwinn sway bar bushings, made of what I can only guess is a Schwinn bicycle tire.
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Switch the socket from the other side first...you likely need a socket or harness connector, both accessible w/o removing the dam.rmiddendorf wrote:Rotated my tires- but that didn't fix the shimmy. And still struggling with my not-operational front left parking lights. Switch works, fuse is good, now the front spoiler's gotta go so I can trace wires...
Re: Schwinn Bushings
It sure was! Actually they still are. New bushings will be on the way shortly.ilikemybike wrote:
I think that's part of a hand grip. This was installed as a bushing?!!