MyE28.com

alijonny wrote:another question, I have a known good spare 260/6 that I want to swap into my 745i. I have all the parts to do the swap, the 745 already has a 260/5 with a nasty whine in 1st and a bad synchro in third. I realize there is a different shifter support, is this possible to swap over from a different shifter support without too much work involved?

bump for my unanswered questions...

so does anyone know the length difference between the 260/5 and 260/6? or should I just buy another 260/5 and be done for now?
I think I have issues where the trans noise is making trouble for the knock sensor causing it to pull unnecessary timing ( does that sound right?). 4th has an interesting low rumble/ constant grind under load, 3rd has no synchro but holds fine, 1st whines...nothing pops out of gear, but I like to impress the ladies by acting like I drive a stick car. It doesn't help when 3rd grinds EVERY time. lol.

alijonny wrote:

alijonny wrote:another question, I have a known good spare 260/6 that I want to swap into my 745i. I have all the parts to do the swap, the 745 already has a 260/5 with a nasty whine in 1st and a bad synchro in third. I realize there is a different shifter support, is this possible to swap over from a different shifter support without too much work involved?

bump for my unanswered questions...

so does anyone know the length difference between the 260/5 and 260/6? or should I just buy another 260/5 and be done for now?
I think I have issues where the trans noise is making trouble for the knock sensor causing it to pull unnecessary timing ( does that sound right?). 4th has an interesting low rumble/ constant grind under load, 3rd has no synchro but holds fine, 1st whines...nothing pops out of gear, but I like to impress the ladies by acting like I drive a stick car. It doesn't help when 3rd grinds EVERY time. lol.

I was under the impression the 260/6 is stronger than the 260/5 (how/why, I do not know) and was available in '86 MY E23s per REALoem... good luck finding an '86 manual E23 for the driveshaft but anything is possible. Since the 260/6 was installed in the E23, I cannot fathom why you cannot install a 260/6 from whatever vehicle into your 745i with the appropriate driveshaft and modify the shifter assembly accordingly... But maybe there is a reason you cannot, that I just am missing.

Do you have a tape measure? You could just go out and measure them, at least that is what I would do. We may be surprised and they could be nearly the same length. Bimmerboard old posts show 20-1/8" v 19-3/8" so you would just have to shorten the shaft a bit then figure out how the back of the newer shifter linkage mounts.

I would like to know how/why the /5 is weak before I spend my time sourcing and installing the /6.

For the 745i and KR, could be many things causing it. Valve train noise, bad plugs, bad fuel, low fuel at the injectors, AFM out of adjustment, dirty injectors, etc. Just going to have to go over the basics and go from there.

Hit Man X wrote:

alijonny wrote:

alijonny wrote:another question, I have a known good spare 260/6 that I want to swap into my 745i. I have all the parts to do the swap, the 745 already has a 260/5 with a nasty whine in 1st and a bad synchro in third. I realize there is a different shifter support, is this possible to swap over from a different shifter support without too much work involved?

bump for my unanswered questions...

so does anyone know the length difference between the 260/5 and 260/6? or should I just buy another 260/5 and be done for now?
I think I have issues where the trans noise is making trouble for the knock sensor causing it to pull unnecessary timing ( does that sound right?). 4th has an interesting low rumble/ constant grind under load, 3rd has no synchro but holds fine, 1st whines...nothing pops out of gear, but I like to impress the ladies by acting like I drive a stick car. It doesn't help when 3rd grinds EVERY time. lol.

I was under the impression the 260/6 is stronger than the 260/5 (how/why, I do not know) and was available in '86 MY E23s per REALoem... good luck finding an '86 manual E23 for the driveshaft but anything is possible. Since the 260/6 was installed in the E23, I cannot fathom why you cannot install a 260/6 from whatever vehicle into your 745i with the appropriate driveshaft and modify the shifter assembly accordingly... But maybe there is a reason you cannot, that I just am missing.

Do you have a tape measure? You could just go out and measure them, at least that is what I would do. We may be surprised and they could be nearly the same length. Bimmerboard old posts show 20-1/8" v 19-3/8" so you would just have to shorten the shaft a bit then figure out how the back of the newer shifter linkage mounts.

I would like to know how/why the /5 is weak before I spend my time sourcing and installing the /6.

For the 745i and KR, could be many things causing it. Valve train noise, bad plugs, bad fuel, low fuel at the injectors, AFM out of adjustment, dirty injectors, etc. Just going to have to go over the basics and go from there.

the engine is quite healthy. The trans is doing all the damage, I also forgot to mention that when the clutch pedal is released, it makes a horrible noise. I know it's not the T/O bearing as the noise disappears when the clutch pedal is pressed. I feel that all my trans woes will be solved by doing away with this particular 260/5. I think this trans has seen "things" and "stuff". I do wish I knew the guy who swapped the trans.

I like this thread. Very helpful. Now how does one use the control knob during driving? Mine stays in economy and when I put it in sport or step-up mode it springs back instead of staying where I select it. Thoughts?

The switch is designed to move itself back when you turn off the car. Perhaps there is a fault with that circuit or with the detents in the switch.

mooseheadm5 wrote:The switch is designed to move itself back when you turn off the car. Perhaps there is a fault with that circuit or with the detents in the switch.

It does this while driving I mean. If I select sport... it goes back to economy. Same with the step down operations. Now when the car is off... the switch wil stay where I put it until the car starts.

shagrath wrote:

mooseheadm5 wrote:The switch is designed to move itself back when you turn off the car. Perhaps there is a fault with that circuit or with the detents in the switch.

It does this while driving I mean. If I select sport... it goes back to economy. Same with the step down operations. Now when the car is off... the switch wil stay where I put it until the car starts.

Check the ETM and see what activates it to snap back. It is a solenoid that does it. Perhaps it is being energized constantly.

mooseheadm5 wrote:

shagrath wrote:

mooseheadm5 wrote:The switch is designed to move itself back when you turn off the car. Perhaps there is a fault with that circuit or with the detents in the switch.

It does this while driving I mean. If I select sport... it goes back to economy. Same with the step down operations. Now when the car is off... the switch wil stay where I put it until the car starts.

Check the ETM and see what activates it to snap back. It is a solenoid that does it. Perhaps it is being energized constantly.

My thoughts too. If its going to be a crazy expensive thing to fix I won't worry with it. Ill do a five speed swap next year then.

I'd be tempted to just pull the power to the solenoid. The reset feature is just to keep you from always leaving it in sport or manual, probably for fuel economy reasons.

mooseheadm5 wrote:I'd be tempted to just pull the power to the solenoid. The reset feature is just to keep you from always leaving it in sport or manual, probably for fuel economy reasons.

That seems as stupid and a waste to me as the servo for the fresh air flaps.

wkohler wrote:

mooseheadm5 wrote:I'd be tempted to just pull the power to the solenoid. The reset feature is just to keep you from always leaving it in sport or manual, probably for fuel economy reasons.

That seems as stupid and a waste to me as the servo for the fresh air flaps.

This. So if I yank power from the servo, the switch will still work... but it won't reset itself? Cool.I can live with that. I'm more in tune with my cars than many... so I can remember.

While gathering parts from two different cars to complete an auto to manual swap (Car #1 is a Euro '86 635 Car #2 is an '88 528e) into an '88 535is.
Almost everything came from the 635- trans, flywheel, driveshaft, bent shift rod.
From the 528, a complete aluminum shift console with it's straight shift rod, and the rear crossmember.
I have two questions: The aluminum casting of the console is a different part number than the one used in the 535 according to realoem. Is the 528 console different, even though it's from the same year car as the one it's going into?
Also, can anyone confirm that the bent rod from the 635, since it looks to be repaired at some point, that it is the correct length?
Since the straight rod from the 528 is quite a bit shorter, I'm concerned that the aluminum console will be shorter too...

The console is specific to the transmission, so since the 528e uses a different transmission (260/5), it won't work on the 260/6. But you knew that.

I put a auto transmission from a 84 533 into a 86 535i. I am trying to find the part on the throttle housing that will control the transmission cable. Does anyone no were i could find that piece. Thanks DOM

I want to do a manual swap into my 84' 533i. I car im taking the transmission from is an 88' 535is, so it is a 260/6. will this fit in my 84' 533i?

alijonny wrote:

alijonny wrote:another question, I have a known good spare 260/6 that I want to swap into my 745i. I have all the parts to do the swap, the 745 already has a 260/5 with a nasty whine in 1st and a bad synchro in third. I realize there is a different shifter support, is this possible to swap over from a different shifter support without too much work involved?

bump for my unanswered questions...

so does anyone know the length difference between the 260/5 and 260/6? or should I just buy another 260/5 and be done for now?
I think I have issues where the trans noise is making trouble for the knock sensor causing it to pull unnecessary timing ( does that sound right?). 4th has an interesting low rumble/ constant grind under load, 3rd has no synchro but holds fine, 1st whines...nothing pops out of gear, but I like to impress the ladies by acting like I drive a stick car. It doesn't help when 3rd grinds EVERY time. lol.

OK - I have one of each in the garage...I've been through this stuff in coming up with a drive shaft but never recorded the length you specifically asked for. To what degree of accuracy would you like yo have these numbers recorded?

260/6 driveshaft: 1566mm

260/5 driveshaft: 1592mm

sorry bolt wont catch treads.

G242/18 and 19
4 speed 518i from 5/81 to 8/82 production. Not available in US market E28. Same as US E21 320i M10/B20 before '80 production.

G240/5
5 speed 518i from 9/82 til end of production in 12/87. Not available in US market E28 Same transmission as US '83-84 E30 318i M10/B18 engine.

Is there a chart on 5-sp compatibility?
For instance can a 260 or 265 be used in a E28 M5?
Does the 280 have a removable bellhousing to use a 265?
It would be nice to have a chart or something posted up front for people who may not have the original trans available and need to know what all models can be installed and what mods need performed.

The s38 and m30 have the same bell housing pattern AFAIK. What works/fits behind one should work behind the other.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=59684

He's demanding a full color chart with pictures and video though. It's too hard to search.

i have a 1986' 528e production date: 04/86'
its an auto and would like to swap it into a manual...
what are my options?

Research.

I just bought an e28 with an m30b35. It has a transmission with fins on the bottom/sides so I assume it is a 260/6. My question is, if by using the same bellhousing, will I be able to mate a 265/6 to this engine? If not, what bellhousing should I be looking for on a 265/6 candidate to make sure it fits an m30?

Thanks for the detailed transmission writeup, Mike. Question: My Getrag 265 with removeable bellhousing came off a 76 e12 530i for which it was obviously not the original transmission. I now want to install it into my M20 eta with auto transmission equipped stock 85 528e.
Can I use the same bellhousing?
Thanks, Dave

No, you need the m20 bell housing.

Hello all.

Am I right in my suggestions that
"S206 FUENF-GANG-SPORTGETRIEB" option means Getrag 265/5 gearbox with Dogleg shift pattern?

Hey Mike

RE: G265/5

I just found two Getrag 265 transmissions on CL with the following stamped on the side 2620051090 225 1.3

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/4378802431.html
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/pts/4365825242.html

I doubt these are the close ratio transmissions, 265/5.

So just wondering what other numbers on the 265/5 would help identify them?



cheers,

john

Will a Getrag 260 trans fit a M30b34? Sorry new to transmission swaps.