20psi easily seeing 24-26psi at times. On my last pass I felt a vibration from the car like maybe the engine or something, maybe a rocker arm, hoping it not though. Still trapped 135Scottinva wrote:So the motor is holding up well at 20psi? Had any mechanical issues?
Noob to M30's
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Haha Todd I knew you would be excited, showing those 24V guys whats upT_C_D wrote:
Here's a vid
http://vimeo.com/41675072
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Why would he need to work with Todd? Seems to be doing it and doing it well by himself.europartconnect wrote:Off topic but Otis you need to work with Todd and make a tubular bottom mount that would work with his kits. It would take his kits to the next level and would offer a better option over the log manifold.
I dreamed for a while of a bottom-mount tubular but figured why insist on mounting the turbo in an awkward location adjacent the UCA bushing when it could be top-mounted and more easily serviced and plumbed?
The twin-scroll is going to kick ass. Looking forward to comparing the results. May be building or commissioning a similar manifold in the near future.
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Couple questions here, Otis:Good & Tight wrote:
1. Any reason you have left the mounting flange as a single continuous piece for all 6 cylinders?
I understand the concern about having the setup being more or less rigid, but differential heating along the length of the head and between the 6 tubes can lead to a lot of distortion--especially so where the flange is 3/8" more or less and the tubing proper around .060". ISTR reading someplace about it being a Good Idea to have the flanges for each cylinder separated. Not by much, maybe .100", but enough to allow for possible different amounts of expansion when heated to exhaust gas temps.
Which leads to the next question:
2. Do you plan to "ovalize" the holes in the flanges where the exhaust studs come through?
The idea here is to allow the flange to expand under heating and not place lateral shear loadings on the studs themselves. This "ovalizing" isn't a large amount, but sufficient to avoid loading the stud. Gas leakage is avoided by having the usual exhaust gaskets; the "ovalizing" is small enough to have the exhaust stud securing nuts have sufficient area to bear on the flange itself. If one is concerned abouty proiper bearing, an appropriately-sized stainless steel flat washer can be placed on the flange under the copper exhaust stud nut.