MyE28.com

Scottinva wrote:So the motor is holding up well at 20psi? Had any mechanical issues?

20psi easily seeing 24-26psi at times. On my last pass I felt a vibration from the car like maybe the engine or something, maybe a rocker arm, hoping it not though. Still trapped 135

T_C_D wrote:

Haha Todd I knew you would be excited, showing those 24V guys whats up

Here's a vid

http://vimeo.com/41675072

Glad you kept it together for a few runs but a decent 60ft time would get you into the mid 10s! You must have the fastest m30 powered car on the planet!

Great run!

I wonder what this would look like with an auto tranny & hi-stall tq converter.

Nebraska_e28 wrote:Great run!

I wonder what this would look like with an auto tranny & hi-stall tq converter.

9.90s

These are the threads I love seeing in the FI section! Nice job!

Great work Otis, you are an M30 God.

10 second m30. Too bad ass.


Can we get the log just for fun please?

Time for a little update. Removed the old manifold and turbo and started fabricating a twinscroll one for the HX55.
Here's some progress.

That flange looks familiar good to see it getting put to good use!

I can't wait to see how this turns out.

Looks great Otis! I can't wait to see what this thing puts down with that HX55.

Off topic but Otis you need to work with Todd and make a tubular bottom mount that would work with his kits. It would take his kits to the next level and would offer a better option over the log manifold.

Another off topic Otis but how about making NA headers for the e30 swap....just wishing out loud.

europartconnect wrote:Off topic but Otis you need to work with Todd and make a tubular bottom mount that would work with his kits. It would take his kits to the next level and would offer a better option over the log manifold.

Why would he need to work with Todd? Seems to be doing it and doing it well by himself.

I dreamed for a while of a bottom-mount tubular but figured why insist on mounting the turbo in an awkward location adjacent the UCA bushing when it could be top-mounted and more easily serviced and plumbed?

The twin-scroll is going to kick ass. Looking forward to comparing the results. May be building or commissioning a similar manifold in the near future.

Otis, any idea on a planned price-point on this new manifold?

Manifold looks great otis!

Thanks guys. Just need to add the wastegates.
As far as pricing goes $1800 for anyone interested.

Wow, that is a bad ass looking manifold.

daaaaaaaammmmm. Did you really need to cut much wheel well out?

Looks good otis, nice work!

Shadow wrote:daaaaaaaammmmm. Did you really need to cut much wheel well out?

I'm going to run the wastegate dumps on that side. The turbo itself didn't interfere with wheel well.

So, each bank gets thier own wastegate?

M. Holtmeier wrote:


So, each bank gets thier own wastegate?

Two is better than one right..?

Got the wastegates configured, now it's time to bolt it on and redo the down pipe.

Two wastegates is actually a bad ass way to roll if you truly want a divided pulse manifold.

Got it started today Wastegate dump tubes are next on the list along with tying in the signal line to them.

any warping issues after all the welding is done?

Manifold looks sexy!

Good & Tight wrote:

Couple questions here, Otis:
1. Any reason you have left the mounting flange as a single continuous piece for all 6 cylinders?
I understand the concern about having the setup being more or less rigid, but differential heating along the length of the head and between the 6 tubes can lead to a lot of distortion--especially so where the flange is 3/8" more or less and the tubing proper around .060". ISTR reading someplace about it being a Good Idea to have the flanges for each cylinder separated. Not by much, maybe .100", but enough to allow for possible different amounts of expansion when heated to exhaust gas temps.

Which leads to the next question:
2. Do you plan to "ovalize" the holes in the flanges where the exhaust studs come through?
The idea here is to allow the flange to expand under heating and not place lateral shear loadings on the studs themselves. This "ovalizing" isn't a large amount, but sufficient to avoid loading the stud. Gas leakage is avoided by having the usual exhaust gaskets; the "ovalizing" is small enough to have the exhaust stud securing nuts have sufficient area to bear on the flange itself. If one is concerned abouty proiper bearing, an appropriately-sized stainless steel flat washer can be placed on the flange under the copper exhaust stud nut.

The flange runs much cooler than EGT. I'm sure the head soaks up a great deal of heat I'm running a single piece flange and I've had no problems FWIW.