MyE28.com

Installed my voltemter!

Here's what my distributor cap looked like when I replaced it a couple weeks back; you can see daylight through that crack. No wonder there was lightning under the hood.

I did an oil change on the B7 and made a huge mess.

I also removed the Federalized charcoal canister and the related hoses.

e28Sean wrote:Installed my voltemter!

Add where might one find this fancy thing for purchase?


DOH! missed the hidden link.

The clutch slave cylinder was spraying fluid all over when I checked it the other night, and the replacement I ordered came in today. Also got a set of rear rotors for it. As long as we're bleeding hydraulics...

Finally got to the rear glass lock strip done, not a bad job using the plastic jimmy stix winshield guys use and some dawn dish soap for lube. Also installed a footrest:



I also used the e30 part as it was one piece and cut to fit ( thanks for tip DanaR)



all the tools for the job, and difference between old strip and new:

Installed and welded in the mwrench steering box fix on the M5. The bracket had a crack, but not broken, so good timing.

Head gasket.

Well I installed the glovebox latch oldskool sent me.

Halfway installed the way it was before) a new antenna seal since the old one was cracked and missing parts of it. I need to figure out how to get that to properly seal since the antenna motor won't let the seal go down any further.

Also put in the "new" zhp knob I got from Chimi-Changa to replace the wooden one I had.
(please excuse the dirty floor mats and cracked dash)
Didn't realize it would match my steering wheel until I put it in.

Replaced the outer weather strip on the front passenger window. I didn't think it would be nearly as easy as it was. It looks completely different now too,

You need to unbolt the antenna assembly and pull it into the trunk. Then, install the grommet into the fender. Finish by inserting the antenna back through the grommet and bolting it back into place.

Kyle in NO wrote:You need to unbolt the antenna assembly and pull it into the trunk. Then, install the grommet into the fender. Finish by inserting the antenna back through the grommet and bolting it back into place.

Thanks I'll do that tomorrow.

Starting replacing the windshield this week:


More here: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3& ... d&start=50

First day back from AZ got down to business to clean new acquisition. Took a few hours to remove the years of dirt and grime from the engine bay and underside.



Cleaned up pretty well

Installed 6 cleaned and flow matched fuel injectors into the M20. (Thank you Rich at Cruzin' Performance) After a complete e2i engine rebuild two years ago I've been kicking myself for not addressing the injectors better at the time. A noticeable improvement - feels good.

Adjusted the passenger side hood catch to not bind (slightly) upon opening the hood.

Doused the squeaky urethane bushings in the rear trailing arms with WD-40. Didn't hear a peep out of them tonight, glad it worked for now. KMAC rear camber kit, your days are numbered.

On my 535is I did two things: replaced the foam strip near the leading edge of the hood, and lubricated the squeaky fresh air blower.

Lubricating the blower was a hassle. The car has a gasoline cooler, so I couldn't really remove the firewall cover, much less the motor itself. So I:

1. Pulled the firewall cover as far forward as I could.
2. Popped the motor covers.
3. unclipped the motor.
4. Rotated the motor a bit so I could see the bushings.
5. Sprayed some Teflon spray at the bushings. I used a section of small brass tubing to extend the lubricant's spray tube.
6. Dribbled some oil on the bushings with the dipstick.
7. Buttoned everything up.

It doesn't squeak anymore. We'll see how long it stays that way. My 535i with 578k miles is still on the original motor. I oil it whenever it starts squeaking, which is every couple of years.

Getting everything in the audio department squared away. Factory premium system, updated with early e34 weather band radio, 6 disc factory changer in the trunk. The rear speakers needed the surrounds glued down to the baskets. All 4 tweeters are working now. A good test was cranking it to 10, no blown speakers.

After a lot of reading and looking at the wiring schematics I was able to tie into the rear channel speakers positives pre-amp. The center of the spliced rca's pick up the signal, and the shielding negative goes to chassis ground. 5v signal is going to the amp. A bit of voodoo wiring it felt like.

Ran a remote splice from the antenna/factory amp. Added a 400w mono amp and matching subwoofer in a truck box that fits cleanly behind the passenger seat. The gain is turned down to almost zero, and still has quite a bit of punch. Trying to get the best balance will take a bit of tuning, but it's not too far off. Probably just need a weaker amp.

RonW wrote:On my 535is I did two things: replaced the foam strip near the leading edge of the hood, and lubricated the squeaky fresh air blower.

Lubricating the blower was a hassle. The car has a gasoline cooler, so I couldn't really remove the firewall cover, much less the motor itself. So I:

1. Pulled the firewall cover as far forward as I could.
2. Popped the motor covers.
3. unclipped the motor.
4. Rotated the motor a bit so I could see the bushings.
5. Sprayed some Teflon spray at the bushings. I used a section of small brass tubing to extend the lubricant's spray tube.
6. Dribbled some oil on the bushings with the dipstick.
7. Buttoned everything up.

It doesn't squeak anymore. We'll see how long it stays that way. My 535i with 578k miles is still on the original motor. I oil it whenever it starts squeaking, which is every couple of years.

Good job, Ron, I highly recommend the 4 oz of oil in a squeeze bottle with a 14" telescoping spout.I bought it at the local Ace Hardware for a couple of bucks. Shawn D, mentioned it yrs ago. The 535is is suffering from lack of use.That is going be the issue with that car. I bought a new pump oil can. The guts of one that I had for 30 yrs fell apart and I needed one. I've been using it on the hinges and stops. A few squirts .is all it took. Maybe get something for the rubber door gaskets ,etc..

For the umpteenth time I have the cat back on the ground. In all my wrestling with grafting an M5 exhaust onto a super eta cat. at the exhaust manifold ,I ripped the flange clean off the rear down pipe. Doh!.. I have the nose 2 feet in the air . I also flunked for a bad left outer tie rod end. I had a good set, originals from the '82 with castle nuts and cotter pin holes and the rondel stamped on the bottom. I freed them up and they were tight. I bought a set of boots for 6.95. I drilled 9/32 holes into the grease cap. I pumped fresh grease into the ball joint then I capped the holes with some rtv.

Then I took the original and traced its out line on a piece of plywood. I matched up the new ones to the marks for a ball park alignment.

Got that damn keyless entry system working...finally

Thank goodness for Chinese standardization!

Installed a more period correct radio (Bavaria Mono Digital), which replaced a crappy 90's Alpine one:

Did the vacuum brake conversion on my 535i. I had a high idle until I realized I forgot to put an o-ring on the master. I still have to get a PS hose made so for a few more days I have manual steering. I also need to get a PS reservoir bracket so I can mount it better than with zip ties. Overall it seems like a good mod and the braking feel is fine.

I gave my brother the down pipe with its broken off rear flange. His shop works in small stuff made of exotic metals. I just need a cast iron flange re-welded to an original Boysen DP

Put mine away indefinitely





A somewhat sudden move across the country has led me to store my car until further notice, which is a bummer

white chocolate wrote:Put mine away indefinitely





A somewhat sudden move across the country has led me to store my car until further notice, which is a bummer

That's too bad

I took my cluster apart today to fix the odometer gears.

I finally installed the sport seats the other day (only took me a year...)

installed a new speedometer pulse generator. speedo etc. now working again.

Continuing progress of my strut/shock, dogbone, control arm, strut mount exchange...

Kind of a bugger on a 30 year old car with 200k+ that's never had it out before. At least the oil from the engine is lubricating it well and preventing rust.

Got my new thermostat housing in the mail to replace a cracked old one.

However, the gasket that came with it didn't fit! I used some Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 on the surfaces to seal it up instead. I filled up the cooling system according to this thread, then I let the engine warm up and it went well past high noon. I imagine I still need to bleed it some more. Praying that bleeding will fix it--I've replaced basically everything in the cooling system minus the water pump.

The hose clamp on the big hose on my (new) expansion tank won't stay tight, to the tune of a drop of coolant every second or so, so I've gotta go grab a new one of those and then I should be good to go.

https://flic.kr/p/ttvC7w https://www.flickr.com/photos/61169785@N08/

Nothing like a powder blue strut brace to tie an engine bay together. Thanks to fastenerpuller for hooking me up with this today. Hes good people, we'll have to chat a bit more next time you're in town and aren't rushed for time

I finally found the spot in my garage where I hid the center caps for the wheels on the e28, and went to put them on; they are e34 Style 5s. Apparently I never had these wheels on the 528e before because I couldn't get the center caps on the fronts. They went on the back just fine, but the fronts... Not so much. Turns out this is a known problem. And I've probably read that FAQ once or twice before, but...



http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=53909

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=74975

At least I didn't post another question about it.

Picked up a set of e38 style 5s and a set of H&R springs from a forum member. Can't wait to install them soon.