MyE28.com

Well, not much has changed. I'm looking at saws, hoping to end up with a horizontal band saw like I had at school. Wheels/tires have been chosen: 17" Style 5's with 245's all around (or something like that). Arranging to start on the floor in the next week or two. And I've decided to not use the ASC+T system from the 750's as they are much more complex than I thought:

So I've increased my range of potential parts cars to the early models as well. And I may have found one: a 1989 750iL with "143k miles and locked rear brakes." Will keep everyone updated.

On those cars I believe that the ASC+T is integrated into the throttle computer. Unless you want to give it all the signals it needs it may want to run in limp mode. My vote is to use any 750iL engine and run a standalone fuel injection.

mooseheadm5 wrote:On those cars I believe that the ASC+T is integrated into the throttle computer. Unless you want to give it all the signals it needs it may want to run in limp mode. My vote is to use any 750iL engine and run a standalone fuel injection.

Shouldn't be a problem if the car wasn't equipped with ASC+T in the first place. I am considering standalone once I get the project driving. Wanna see how it is first. Only reason I would go to standalone as of now is to turbocharge.

I would think with the more modern engine standalone would be less of a headache no matter what. You could make a custom harness if you're even halfway decent with a soldering iron and some heat shrink. DIYAutoTune.com has their 12' harness for like 75 bucks or something. Add in the cost of sourced connectors from the yard and an MSII and you're there.

Or you could make an adapter harness, but I've always thought that on more complex harnesses it's easier to have touched each wire.

I think due to the M70's "two engines" concept it'll be easier for me to just reuse the old wiring as a start. It worked well for me on the big six. I just labeled everything with tape when I disconnected it and it was a breeze to reassemble.

Just stumbled on this thread and read it all this morning. Keep up the challenging work.

Thanks man, I really appreciate it.

Anyone familiar with e32's? I'm going to check one out tomorrow and the interior looks special, or unusual at least. Any ideas?

that poo brown dash is just very 80's

I know I know, but I'm sure someone will want it just to be different.

sbeckman7 wrote:Thanks man, I really appreciate it.

Anyone familiar with e32's? I'm going to check one out tomorrow and the interior looks special, or unusual at least. Any ideas?

If you're a member on BimmerBoard or BimmerForums, post that photo up on the e32 pages to see if anyone knows if that's a special order color. Shogun is usually quick to respond to questions on either forum and is the Chris Kohler of the e32 world. I haven't seen a lot of e32s, but every one has had a black dash. Can't imagine dash color would be an easy thing to change for limited quantities.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/e32
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/fo ... .php?f=299

And thanks for the regular updates on your project. Great fun to watch your progress!

Thanks davintosh! I already posted on the e32 section before here, got an answer last night. Apparently it's "Saddle Tan". Cool

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... ?t=1671616


Updates: got a drill press from my friend Daniel, found another parts car. Black on grey, so no peanut butter-reeses , but only 93k on the clock. Its in the same area as the other so i might just check both of them out.

Got my car. Haven't paid for it yet, but I might get it tomorrow. It's the black on grey '89 750iL with 94k miles. Sounded good after it got going; it was sitting for 3 months prior to my attempts to start it.

The parts car is home and I've already started on the interior, getting ready to dissect the wiring harness. It's definitely a step up from the e28 in terms of complexity, but the same label-as-you-go method is working well. Unfortunately most of the leather bits on the car have at least one scratch, so I don't know how much of it I'll be able to sell, but the engine runs beautifully. I have noticed that the sensors are broken; I get low oil and coolant warnings but both of them are topped up, so I'm not sure what that's about. Today i removed the glovebox and all the panels in the driver and passenger footwells. Going back for a night shift, for fun. It's nice having the car in my driveway as supposed to driving 10 minutes to get to it like last time.

you can tell it's a parts car because of the official looking wood propping the hood open


headlights look exceptional, I'll probably swap them onto my car. Hood has a few dents


front quarter panel is strangely oxidized


progress pics tomorrow

You're putting the V12 in your roadster?

sbeckman7 wrote:... I have noticed that the sensors are broken; I get low oil and coolant warnings but both of them are topped up, so I'm not sure what that's about...

The coolant sensor is a cheap & easy fix, but given the placement of the coolant overflow bottle, you may not want to carry it over to the engine's new home. I believe the oil pressure switch in the M70 is similar to that in the M30, and easy to replace. In the e32 it might be difficult to reach, but...

OT, but did they use nikisil in the early M70?

I was always told to stay away from e32 V12s.

slammin_e28 wrote:OT, but did they use nikisil in the early M70?

I was always told to stay away from e32 V12s.

V12's were all alusil, but you were told to stay away for a reason. They have a reputation for being pieces of junk due to lack of maintainess. I got lucky with my parts car and even if I hadn't found one like this, I thought it was worth the risk for 12 cylinders.

Also, just as al buying tip, the general consensus of Nilsson blocks is if it hasn't busted yet, it's not going to.

sbeckman7 wrote:

slammin_e28 wrote:OT, but did they use nikisil in the early M70?

I was always told to stay away from e32 V12s.

V12's were all alusil, but you were told to stay away for a reason. They have a reputation for being pieces of junk due to lack of maintainess. I got lucky with my parts car and even if I hadn't found one like this, I thought it was worth the risk for 12 cylinders.

Also, just as al buying tip, the general consensus of Nilsson blocks is if it hasn't busted yet, it's not going to.

Nikisil?

Yeah, I read up on 'em before buying my M60. I made sure to get an Alusil though.

That outta be a very interesting project with the M70 going in there! I like where this is going!

Hahah woops my phone decided to change the spelling on me. The car should be quite something when it's done!

Dropped the exhaust cat-back today. Sounds absolutely wonderful Interior is coming apart slowly but surely.

sbeckman7 wrote:Dropped the exhaust cat-back today. Sounds absolutely wonderful Interior is coming apart slowly but surely.

Like a pair of M30s singing a duet: Sweet!

Too bad you passed on the car with the Saddle Tan interior; I would've been sorely tempted to take that off your hands.

davintosh wrote:

sbeckman7 wrote:Dropped the exhaust cat-back today. Sounds absolutely wonderful Interior is coming apart slowly but surely.

Like a pair of M30s singing a duet: Sweet!

Too bad you passed on the car with the Saddle Tan interior; I would've been sorely tempted to take that off your hands.

I would have appreciated that as much as you would have, but the dude who owned it (kid) thought it was worth at least 1500, so I had to walk

So I've cleared enough space in the garage to order metal. I'm ordering it all at once to knock the price down. They have the round tubing I wanted (1.5 x .095) but not the same thickness in square. The two choices are .090 and .120. I would like to order the .090 to save weight but I'm nay sure if it's strong enough, although I'm assuming .005" difference isn't that much. Maybe one of the more experienced builders could confirm this?

The parts car:





currently:

sbeckman7 wrote:So I've cleared enough space in the garage to order metal. I'm ordering it all at once to knock the price down. They have the round tubing I wanted (1.5 x .095) but not the same thickness in square. The two choices are .090 and .120. I would like to order the .090 to save weight but I'm nay sure if it's strong enough, although I'm assuming .005" difference isn't that much. Maybe one of the more experienced builders could confirm this?

Have you run any simulations to give you an idea for load on each member? I know next to nothing about chassis design, but I can certainly help with strength/mechanics of materials.

Do you know the difference in weight per linear foot (and how many feet)? That could give you an idea of what kind of weight savings to expect, it may be so small that it'd be worth it to have the added rigidity of the thicker walled tubing. Then again, it could be so much heavier that it'd put odd stresses on the chassis.

If you've already got that model made, I'm sure it'd be reasonably easy (and well worth it even if it's not easy) to plug it into solidworks or some other such CAD program to get an idea of the kinds of stresses you'll need this tubing to tolerate.
Or you could do it by hand
I suppose it wouldn't be awful, but it's been a long time since statics.

Xenocide wrote:
Have you run any simulations to give you an idea for load on each member? I know next to nothing about chassis design, but I can certainly help with strength/mechanics of materials.

Do you know the difference in weight per linear foot (and how many feet)? That could give you an idea of what kind of weight savings to expect, it may be so small that it'd be worth it to have the added rigidity of the thicker walled tubing. Then again, it could be so much heavier that it'd put odd stresses on the chassis.

If you've already got that model made, I'm sure it'd be reasonably easy (and well worth it even if it's not easy) to plug it into solidworks or some other such CAD program to get an idea of the kinds of stresses you'll need this tubing to tolerate.
Or you could do it by hand
I suppose it wouldn't be awful, but it's been a long time since statics.

Sorry to say it but I don't know the answers to any of your questions I do, however, thank you for bringing a little common sense to my dilemma. The .090 wall thickness is 1.7194 lbs/ft and the .120 tubing is 2.2438 lbs/ft. Using 80 feet of this, it equates to just under 42 lbs of difference between the two, which is not enough in my book to justify the thinner material. With that said, the round tubing will still be .095 wall thickness because I meet or exceed the SCCA regulations as it is.

Heading back from Mammoth Lakes tomorrow, can't wait to continue taking the 750 apart...

Also talked to Ryan (my employer) and he said he'd have no problem getting two roll hoops fabbed up. I'll need to change the design a bit due to the increasing radius bends; it'll have 3 bends and two straight sections, like this miata setup:

Pulled the engine tonight. Finished around 10:20. Thank god the shop is open then. Here are some pics. I did it the "quick" way, taking the transmission out with it. Didn't really care if some things got broken, so I sorta rushed it, but it turned out fine. The engine is huge...

Ah man.. if your gonna do the work to pull an engine like that you at least need to crack the whip and show that bitch who's the boss!!



That's a friend of mine after we pulled the engine from an 89 supra for a transplant to his car. Whipping it hard with the oil dipstick.

graphite wrote:Ah man.. if your gonna do the work to pull an engine like that you at least need to crack the whip and show that bitch who's the boss!!



That's a friend of mine after we pulled the engine from an 89 supra for a transplant to his car. Whipping it hard with the oil dipstick.

Hahah nice. I had my fun beforehand ripping it from the car and hearing lots of plastic crack and snap off.

Continued removing the wiring harness tonight. I wish I had the luxury of being as slow and thorough as I was with the e28, but it needs to get out of the shop ASAP Hoping to only have a mild headache, most of the connectors are different/color labeled somehow... we'll see. I also need to figure out what to keep and what to throw away as it looks like the engine wiring harness is bundled in with the ABS, SRS, other fuses, etc.

Here are all the wires from the engine bay



from left to right: ECU #1, EML control module, ECU #2, and transmission module