MyE28.com

update, son! Update! Some of us poor, jealous folk are watching this with great interest!

UPDATE!

Yesterday evening got another few hours in on the car due to shop class. Continued stripping the engine bay with much success! There are now absolutely no wires in front of the wheels. All wires to the horns, lights, fan, thermometer, everything has been removed intact and is now currently connected only to the fuse box. Saturday the entire power steering system will be removed (not using it, its just in the way) to make room to get at the master cylinder. Then that will come out, along with taking the brake system. I will be using the ABS module but ditching the lines for full braided steel ones because the originals are in the shape of a 5-series . The enitre to-do list follows as so:

Remove: aux fan, power steering, master cylinder, brake system, rest of wiring, sub-frames and linkages, steering, have some pie.

Big fan of the pie concept.
Sounds fly, my man. Wish I had some dough to take some of those parts off your shop floor!

Haha, everything I'm not using will be up for sale later. I've decided to pause that aspect of the project; getting the body out of the shop space is first on the list.

Just a quick clean-up:

Yesterday some more great progress was made. The car is now wireless (I'm looking into bluetooth-bosch managment options ), the ABS unit and its respective wiring was taken out, and the power steering system is completely removed. In addition I was able to get the remarkably heavy steering column removed, so now the box should come out with the front subframe when I'm ready to do that. I am going to begin cleaning up the wiring as I'm sure many already know how 20 year old electrical tape gets very sticky. Hopefully today or tomorrow I can re-assemble the remaining harness in my garage. On a separate note, I noticed how the master cylinder feeds both the brake and power steering system. Any thoughts of how to adapt this to non-power steering? I was thinking of just plugging the hole that fed to the steering, but I'm not sure if this would over-pressurize the system. Still, I'd love to hear theories if anyone has some.

Neat. You should have done with the tired chassis soon...

I presume you already have the tube frame all ready to go...?

You can loop the lines to the steering box or go to a manual tandem master cylinder and do away with power steering and power brakes at the same time. I'd do the latter because it removes a parasitic drag on the motor, reduces complexity, allows better fine tuning of the brake bias, and allows for any number of steering setups, such as a manual rack and pinion.

Hm, interesting idea. Hadn't thought of that. Would a new master cylinder be hard to hook up? Seems expensive too. In this picture:

It's easy to see how the brake and power steering circuits are connected via the master cylinder. My question is, would I theoretically be able to plug up 12 and 15 without over-pressurizing the system? It seems like the two are tied together, and removing any of those parts would cause the whole system to not work properly (that's what I understand from this: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?p=488253).

Now that I realize this, an aftermarket master cylinder seems like a good idea! Just not sure how to go about doing it...


And nope, the frame is not done yet. That will begin with the school year, as it is my engineering project to have the frame completed by the end of next may or so. Think of this as just getting ahead

You wouldn't plug 12 and 15 to dump the power steering, that would dump power brakes (which you don't want to do.) If you want to dump power brakes and go for a manual tandem master, contact Bill in MN who has just done this. If you also wanted to keep power steering, you'd just do away with the distribution block setup and (probably, I haven't looked into it) install a pump from a car without hydroboost. Figure out what you want to do, and we'll let you know how to go about it properly.

Well ideally I want no power steering, yes to power brakes and abs. That'll make it easier to use on the street, and it'd just feel good to know I was able to make it work.

Let me know if you need any help, I got a pretty full work schedule but if I got time I'll lend a hand. I'm just up in San Rafael. Also, I may be interested in some of the bbs parts. we'll see what happens this pay period.

sbeckman7 wrote:Well ideally I want no power steering, yes to power brakes and abs. That'll make it easier to use on the street, and it'd just feel good to know I was able to make it work.

Street? I thought you were just building a race car.

You can do away with the PS pump and hydroboost altogether and just install a vacuum booster then.

I will be registering the vehicle for road use if possible. If not, I will just track it. Would there be any vacumn boost (like from an e34 5 series or something) that is plug n' play? What's the best way to go about doing it?

528e had it

Great, thanks!

What is the point of this car, what will it race in? Is there no series, just build it for shits and giggles?

Scottinva wrote:Is there no series, just build it for shits and giggles?

Hey i'm all for it. 90 percent of this forum has upgraded springs and stuff, very very few go to tracks at all. Your already doing more than most have. Don't be a poser!

I won't. It will be seeing tracktime guaranteed. Otherwise I would have started with a 7 series

Kick ass, pictures are in order when you do so.

damn son, wish I could get some wrench time in on this beast!

so jealous. are you going for normally aspirated or blown?

N/A all the way. Ive always seen it as more pure form of power. I care about it so much that I wrote about the N/A - FI argument for several pages in my final english paper last semester. Actually, I would love to post that excerpt if no one has any objections. I will however be running 12:1 compression pistons, 96 octane on the street, and 103 octane on the track. I know there isnt much to be gotten out of an m30 without a turbo, but thats absolutely fine with me as long as I can hear the legendary big six without any interruption of a turbo spooling up or supercharger whining.

amen brother.

and i would love to see that excerpt. maybe post a link here and set it up on the general discussion board?

Good Idea.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=80 ... highlight=

Speaking of not getting much from m30's N/A, anyone have a clue as to what BMW did to them when they raced in the 6ers? 300-400hp would be quite an accomplishment out of those things!

Had a few hours to work on the car today. Removed pedal box, slave cylinder, and other clutch trickery. Remaining: Subframes/Steering, fuel lines, charcoal canister, pie time. Pick N' Pull is kind enough to offer me a whopping $21 for removal of the body and having it sent to their yard. Could be worse.

BMW had a very very potent N/A 6 during this era. S38 Swap is what I would do rather than buying the custom pistons and all of that. Its a platform that in tuned NA form will yield at least 100HP over the M30. Power aside, I think it would be a better track motor and would also sound so nice. I think of the M30 as a pickup truck, its utilitarian, reliable as dirt, and simple. The S38 would be more akin to an exotic, and I mean Italian or English exotic, the kind that is absolutely amazing and the pinnacle of sport. When it runs.

sbeckman7 wrote:N/A all the way. Ive always seen it as more pure form of power. I care about it so much that I wrote about the N/A - FI argument for several pages in my final english paper last semester. Actually, I would love to post that excerpt if no one has any objections. I will however be running 12:1 compression pistons, 96 octane on the street, and 103 octane on the track. I know there isnt much to be gotten out of an m30 without a turbo, but thats absolutely fine with me as long as I can hear the legendary big six without any interruption of a turbo spooling up or supercharger whining.

You're planing on 12:1cr on 96 octane?

That smilely is priceless

Since you said that so skeptically, I will ask the fuel manufacturer what the limits of its 96 are, but I have confirmation that the race fuel will take up to 15:1 compression.


I have confirmation that the 96 octane works in Cast-Iron heads safely up to a 13:1 compression ratio. All good!

http://www.rippmods.com/ProductDetails. ... P-SB100-1G