MyE28.com

sbeckman7 wrote: I am hoping to install some sort of HHO injection system on the engine after it's running.

Seriously?

tsmall07 wrote:

sbeckman7 wrote: I am hoping to install some sort of HHO injection system on the engine after it's running.

Seriously?

No. Until I post a video with an HHO system successfully doing something, I'm kidding.

tsmall07 wrote:You really need to stop modifying the car before you've built it. 24 pages and it isn't even supporting its own weight yet.

Yeah... there's only so much I can do from Australia, mate
I can't wait to get back to work on it.

sbeckman7 wrote:Yeah... there's only so much I can do from Australia, mate

Fair enough. Ya got me with the HHO thing.

Bit of unfortunate news for me: the M73 got sold while I was away due to an opportunity that came up for the seller etc. No hard feelings towards him, but I am rather disappointed as it means I'll have to rebuild the M70 i tore apart. Not sure if that adds or subtracts time from the overall project, but at least I don't have to wait for an engine to be shipped now. And it saves me a chunk of money for now. Maybe it's a sign...


...twin turbo... eventually.




Spence

Get back home so you can get this sucker running already!

tschultz wrote:Get back home so you can get this sucker running already!

I will return home in the near future. Expect to hear from me with a real update soon.

Flat bottom or raised? Should I have the two main side beams at the lowest point of the frame or keep the entire bottom surface on one plane? Right now the 1.5" floor tubing is designed to be installed in the middle of the main rails, which are 4" tall.


I'm back by the way, cutting tubing as we speak.

sbeckman7 wrote:Flat bottom or raised? Should I have the two main side beams at the lowest point of the frame or keep the entire bottom surface on one plane? Right now the 1.5" floor tubing is designed to be installed in the middle of the main rails, which are 4" tall.

A lower center of gravity is more important than a flat bottom on this car, IMO. Others feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I would definitely make belly skins (out of sheet aluminum) that smooth out the bottom as much as possible. Some downforce, front and rear, may be in order as well.

I'm back by the way, cutting tubing as we speak.

Great to hear! I'm looking forward to more progress.

Well if I were to weld everything on the lower most plane it would have a lower CG by 1.25" and the bottom would be flat. I guess that's best?

sbeckman7 wrote:Well if I were to weld everything on the lower most plane it would have a lower CG by 1.25" and the bottom would be flat. I guess that's best?

Ah. I understand your previous post better now. Yes, I think that is best as long as everything else "fits" well still.

I was thinking you were considering having things extend below the main rails.

Make sure you account for air flow to the trans and diff if you do a belly pan. Maybe a Z3 finned diff cover would be worth thinking about.

Read Tammer's advice again from the second post of this page. I think it holds good info for where you are right now.

Thank golly goodness...I was just thinking about this project yesterday.

Ok, I have a definite game plan now. First permanent welds will begin tomorrow! (Or first permanent tacks in case I need to adjust later )

tsmall07 wrote:Some downforce, front and rear, may be in order as well.

This. I had a great talk yesterday with a newly introduced neighbor who works in an auto collision repair shop and specializes in vintage corvette builds on the side. I learned a ton of stuff from him regarding safety features to incorporate into the frame as well as aerodynamic considerations to get some downforce and minimize lift and drag. We talked through some good bumper systems, which includes just some normal bumper shocks in front (taken from a car with comparable mass) installed at the front and rear of the car, hidden under the body. The angled tubing of my main side beams should absorb impact and bend upwards if an accident were to occur, but he highly recommended that I bend one of the diff support arms so it doesn't feel inclined to find its way into the cabin should I be rear ended.

As for the body, I've had the basic silhouette figured out for some time now but I need to focus on making it as proportional and aero-efficient as possible. I'll have a massive, gaping grill in the front, with brake ducts and a front splitter below. Front fenders will either be louvered or non-existent depending on where I go with the final design. The rear end will have a very large diffuser lurking underneath. And a spoiler... Think old 911 Whaletale, only smoother and better incorporated into the design The bottom of the car will be flat aside from a finned diff cover and something similar for the transmission (maybe slats in the floorpan?). Any input on cooling is appreciated.

Sorry for the absence everyone. Getting back from Australia took a little while to get used to. Did the usual friends and family rounds, back to chores and sleeping schedules, and looking for a job. Anyway, I didn't want to post anything until I had some progress to share, so here it is.

1st 5er wrote:

This is really starting to look like a chassis!

I'm looking forward to moar!

mtnman533 wrote:This is really starting to look like a chassis!

I'm looking forward to moar!

Thanks! I have to admit your Caterham gives me inspiration every time I look at it.

Do you guys think I should put the X's in the floor? Caterhams don't have it but I know my chassis will be more stressed...

sbeckman7 wrote:

mtnman533 wrote:This is really starting to look like a chassis!

I'm looking forward to moar!

Thanks! I have to admit your Caterham gives me inspiration every time I look at it.

Do you guys think I should put the X's in the floor? Caterhams don't have it but I know my chassis will be more stressed...

If your floor pan sits flat on the top of those floor beams, (I.E. doesn't drop like the Caterham), then I see no reason why you wouldn't do it for safeties sake... the added 10lbs in metal wouldn't make a difference .

Wow I didn't realize how long it's been since my last post. Here are a few pictures to get everyone else up to speed. Finished the floor (except for the X's that I might add later), "dropped" the engine in to figure out where I need to mount it, and got halfway through the front suspension today. Will take detail pics once I clean up the welds

Just gotta weld the rear-most tubing in place, finish the x-brace, remove the old temporary metal, and the front suspension will be done!!! I'll finish it off by gusseting the tubes at the strut mounts and grinding down/welding a cap over the tops of them. The tarp placed over the engine to keep debris out gave me another idea for a body, following the design of an R/C car...







Exposing the struts would look more interesting/dramatic as well as hugely increase visibility. Think I'm gonna do it. I'll probably make some sort of tiny fairing to place at the top of the strut to aid aerodynamics.

Are you tying those struts together in anyway? Or at least putting another diagonal from the other side?

An R/C style body would certain improve visibility, but I can say from experience, open front wheels coat the windscreen, you, the sides of the car, and the rear arches in mud, dead animals, rocks, pretty much anything you run over...

Ahaha yeah sorry, totally forgot to mention the X-brace. duly noted on the open-wheel observation, but how bad is it with fenders and a helmet?

Ah, good, that's fine.

Well, if they're like mine, they do buggerall. They'd have to scrape the road in order to stop the rooster tails. A helmet does make a world of difference, much much less wind noise, you don't get home with a black face everywhere except where your sunglasses were (funny sight it must be said...). However, I will be buying a cheap motorbike (£50ish) helmet for every day driving and street use. I don't fancy having something happen to my £400 racing helmet, so I only where that when I'm driving somewhere I know I can keep it safe, like the track.


Buy a white helmet, you will forever be called the Stig, it's happened to me 4 times already.

The hole saw adapter finally came today so I'll be making more progress on the frame tomorrow as long as it isn't raining too much. I've been grinding down welds and cleaning the engine in the mean time. A few pics:

Hi everyone,

So... I've been dealing with a fantastic flu since Monday so I added more detail to the CAD model. Newly added are 17" Style 5 rims, rear subframe, halfshafts, diff, front and rear suspension, driveshaft and flex disc, brake rotors, revised gearbox with mounts, and a steering wheel to top it off. Here are some shots. This would also be a good time to explain that I've modified the frame, again. I dropped the seat to the floor, sat down, and realized that it felt like a good driving position, so I lowered it and the roll bars 5" and the sides of the frame by 3". Less weight, lower CG, and it looks more badass I also adjusted the track as the wheels were a little too far in.

sbeckman7 wrote:

So you got any plans for skid protection for your rear dif, arms, and trans axels?? Salt tends to do some pretty nasty things when it gets into those areas. I learned that the hard way. Any ways just a suggestion. Its a pretty sweet build man.

Yeah, I'm gonna build a full flat underbody with a rear diffuser, and a skid pan under the engine. I'm looking forward to seeing how it holds up, although I don't think I'll be driving it much during winter!