MyE28.com

sbeckman7 wrote:That smilely is priceless

Since you said that so skeptically, I will ask the fuel manufacturer what the limits of its 96 are, but I have confirmation that the race fuel will take up to 15:1 compression.


I have confirmation that the 96 octane works in Cast-Iron heads safely up to a 13:1 compression ratio. All good!

http://www.rippmods.com/ProductDetails. ... P-SB100-1G

We have used VP fuel products for 20 + years in various race cars & boats, they work as advertised under tested conditions. By that I mean there are variables such as ambient temperature, retained heat & load variations which will affect the fuels ability to not prematurely detonate. Running compression ratios north of 11:1 in older design street engines can be problematic. Good luck with the build.

sbeckman7 wrote:That smilely is priceless

Since you said that so skeptically, I will ask the fuel manufacturer what the limits of its 96 are, but I have confirmation that the race fuel will take up to 15:1 compression.


I have confirmation that the 96 octane works in Cast-Iron heads safely up to a 13:1 compression ratio. All good!

http://www.rippmods.com/ProductDetails. ... P-SB100-1G

There is more to consider. I would contact "paul burke" on this board for custom pistons. Best prices in any CR you want, and all the info you need to make them work for you.

mooseheadm5 wrote:

sbeckman7 wrote:That smilely is priceless

Since you said that so skeptically, I will ask the fuel manufacturer what the limits of its 96 are, but I have confirmation that the race fuel will take up to 15:1 compression.


I have confirmation that the 96 octane works in Cast-Iron heads safely up to a 13:1 compression ratio. All good!

http://www.rippmods.com/ProductDetails. ... P-SB100-1G

There is more to consider. I would contact "paul burke" on this board for custom pistons. Best prices in any CR you want, and all the info you need to make them work for you.

Great, PMed him. Thanks for the tip off!

I look forward to seeing where this goes. Looks like a great project and it's always good to see young blood jump in, get dirty and learn.

Here's a strong one without boost. The only true competitor to the Cologne Capris

w0014170 wrote: Here's a strong one without boost. The only true competitor to the Cologne Capris

That looks expensive

Keep up the good work!

...surprised to see this in my own back yard! There are at least a couple of other BMW nuts that are CoM - IVC alum... I thought that shop looked familiar.

I will PM you when we do a wrenchfest later this summer (Sept.?).

//Mark

wickahead wrote:Keep up the good work!

...surprised to see this in my own back yard! There are at least a couple of other BMW nuts that are CoM - IVC alum... I thought that shop looked familiar.

I will PM you when we do a wrenchfest later this summer (Sept.?).

//Mark

Sounds Good!

nice! I live up in Petaluma and work in Mill Valley, if you need some help let me know.

I will PM you about the BBS pieces,

~Shawn

everone local: we should get together sometime and do.. whatever it is that people on forums do

engine is now safe and sound in my garage, which means I have something new to play with

sbeckman7 wrote:I've begun to take apart the interior. I'm keeping everything intact (minus a few trim pieces) and all the wires connected until i can label them with tape. So far it's going well, but I can tell its going to be hell getting all the wires out of the car. Here's a picture of the damage I have managed to cause so far.

Any chance you'd like to sell me your center console/tranny crossmember, driveshaft, and steering wheel?

I have a steering wheel and auto center console/etc I can trade as well.

Would in a while but for now I need the steering wheel and driveshaft, and the center console got messed up on removal. Sorry man =/

Okay, back from vacation and after I finish reading the wretched Scarlet Letter, it will be back to project time. I now have everything useful (minus the subframes, suspension, and wheels) in the garage as is seen in the picture below. Engine in center bottom, transmission to the right, wiring harness above and spilling into the left accompanied by the steering column and various other tidbits... and all this in an already hideous looking garage. Anyway, the other picture included is a fairly accurate dimensions sketch, as I have decided on the e30's 101 inch wheelbase while keeping the e28's front and rear track of roughly 57 inches, at least for now. Each grid line represents 10 inches. Just thought I'd share what little progress I made.

sbeckman7 wrote:

Kinda looks like your heading in this direction...



http://www.locostusa.com/

...you catch on well

anybody have a time estimate on removal of front and rear subframes at a home on jack stands? just curious.

Few hours, tops. More importantly, what will you do with the car once the subframes are out? Casters?

well to be honest i was thinking about just getting some wood and rolling it old-roman style. It hardly has to move, it's going straight on to a Pick N Pull flatbed that will take it to the junkyard. Thanks a lot for the estimate by the way. Are there any hidden bolts I may run into? The back seems pretty straight forward, its the front that is of more concern. All I can think of in terms of mounting bolts are diff and subframe bushings in the rear, strut towers and steering rack/ front support in the front.

Front is just the bolts to the frame, the brake hoses and ABS/brake sensor wires, the steering shaft (if that is still there) and the tops of the struts. Rear is just the two studs at the front mounts, the rear diff mount, brake cables, sensors, and hoses, and the lower shock mounts. Simple.

just what i wanted to hear Any thoughts of using the ps rack with out attaching the pump? Should I get breather screws or not even worry about it? Rust is my only concern.

Update: Front subframe is out. I kept the wheels and suspension attached but with enough jacks me and a few friends managed to slip it out from the front of the car. Tomorrow is the rear. And homework.

Rear subframe out as well. Took most of the day but i enjoyed it.
Pics tomorrow.

Sweet. I am eager to see the new frame take shape.

PNP doesn't pay much mind to the small bits missing-- in my experience. Is there any reason I shouldn't swing by tonight and retrieve the tail light lenses-- antenna mast and motor-- etc?

These would be valuable to someone and I have space on the shelf.

Wish you had spoken up earlier! They took the car away while I was at school. But the antenna mast and motor were both broken anyway. I still need buyers for BBS body parts though... Let everyone know

sbeckman7 wrote:

Grapefruit on a toothpick. Hope some punk didn't come by and push it over.

nope i live in a pretty good place thankfully. Played around with the subframes and did a small mock up today in class. Here's what I have. What I've discovered is that my entire wheelbase is affected by where I put the engine, so I'm still pondering a wheelbase from 100-107 inches. Not really sure where in that region yet, but I know it's pretty big for the type of car that I'm doing. The tape measure in the middle of the car represents the length of the engine+transmission (which I have to measure again because it seems impossibly long at 65.75 inches). The one on the far right side of picture two is the wheelbase, and the one in between the two is the driver/ passenger cell measured from the back of the seat to the pedal mount. This will be somewhere from 50-57 inches depending on how much adjustability I need (the bucket will be on rails). Here's what I've got:






Does anyone have any ideas on where/how to start the frame? I was thinking with the subframe mounting points but I wasnt sure. Would replacing the subframe bushings with metal sleeves be a bad idea? Seems like it would be much more direct but might crack the subframe. Just thoughts.

Spence

sbeckman7 wrote:What I've discovered is that my entire wheelbase is affected by where I put the engine, so I'm still pondering a wheelbase from 100-107 inches.

Only if you use the stock motor mounts and stock driveshaft. You can shorten the drive shaft and move the subframes closer together, and you can move the engine back for better weight distribution. Hell, you can pretty much hook the output flange of the trans to the input flange of the diff if you wanted.

Thats basically what I was thinking of doing... Maybe a ~1 foot drive shaft but not much more. I meant it affected the wheelbase because I want to keep the engine as far behind the front axle as I can, but every inch I move it back means another inch for the gear lever as well, so thats my problem.